So, there I was... …at 15,000 ft… …dying. Wait! Let’s start at the beginning.
I had the opportunity to hike Tanzania's Mt. Kilimanjaro in Summer 2011. Standing at 19,341 feet above sea level, Kili is the tallest free-standing mountain on the planet. (Mauna Loa is arguably taller, only because it starts below sea level.) In comparison, Everest reaches 29,032 feet above sea level but, as part of a mountain range, the lowest point on its base sits around 13,800 feet on the south side.
Training for the adventure began months before it, knowing this would be the hardest hike I had ever attempted. Lesson: Challenge yourself and prepare for what is ahead.
I trained with two very good hikers, Trent and David, to encourage myself to go beyond my comfort zone. Lesson: Be part of a team and choose teammates that will help you become your best.
On the first day of the hike, a bus drove us up to the start of the trail, which sits at 6,000 feet. We gained 3,000 feet of elevation on our hike to the first camp. It was a lot for a gal who trained on what now seemed like hills. A good night's rest was in order. Lesson: Set ambitious goals and plan milestones to help achieve them.
The next day we set our sights on the 12,000 ft high camp. My breathing struggled during the hike; I moved steadily but slowly. The dry air at altitude resulted in an increased intake of water. Staying at the back of the pack, I eventually reached camp. Lesson: Trust your training and acknowledge your limitations.
The second to last leg of the trek would end at 15,000 feet. It was an extremely hard day, with many opportunities to consider turning around and heading down the mountain. In my stubbornness, I reached for every ounce of energy I had to reach camp that evening. I could barely walk, stand, or eat. I had reached a point where I could no longer function by myself. Lesson: Do your best and ask for help when appropriate.
I wanted desperately to make it to the top! I had trained hard to get there, and I was determined to summit that night. I would watch the sunrise from the peak the next morning and it would be epic! David pulled me aside to gently explain that I couldn’t continue. Altitude sickness had clearly taken hold, and gaining elevation would only worsen the situation. I would remain at camp and join the group in the morning during their descent. Lesson: Speak for yourself and listen to those looking out for your best interest.
I'd like to say that I cried all night, but the truth is I barely had enough breath to survive. I had become so ill that David stayed behind to care for me. When morning came, I felt beyond exhausted. My breathing was extremely shallow, I could barely move, and I was incoherent. Fortunately, an English doctor at camp came to examine me. I understood only two words: "pulmonary edema". According to Wikipedia, "Pulmonary edema... is excessive liquid accumulation… in the lung... [It] can lead to respiratory failure or cardiac arrest." I didn't realize it, but death was knocking at my door.
I was ordered to get off the mountain immediately. I protested that I could walk if I had more time, but they said I had none. Defeated, I climbed onto a stretcher. Lesson: Challenge authority and respect authority.
The gravity of the situation was unclear to me until the porters started running down the mountain. I realized then I only had minutes to spare. The one-wheel stretcher ride over rocky terrain was very uncomfortable, but it paled in comparison to knowing how close I came to touching the sky.
That pain continues to sting today. Hearing “Kilimanjaro” brings anger, tears, or both. I remind myself of what I learned and how I showed my true colors by giving more of myself than I ever thought possible. Lesson: Work hard towards your goals and understand that an unfinished attempt doesn’t automatically result in failure.
Many beautiful things came out of that experience. Perhaps the most wonderful wasn't clear until a year later, when I married the gentleman that gave up his dream to make sure I didn't die on top of the world.
I won't be making plans to travel above 10,000 feet any time soon. Instead, I shall find the flattest vacation destination in North America. Go Hawks!!
